The new, punctual, be-suited Marc Jacobs stood backstage after his Louis Vuitton Fall collection and briskly rattled off the need-to-know: "We just worked with shapes.
Darts, folds, and pleats. I don't like to use these words because they sound pretentious, but if you like, last season was painterly, and this season's sculptural."
In essence, what he'd just shown was a more shapely and pulled-together version of the eighties-inflected collection he'd sent out under his own name in New York. If it led to puzzlement at first viewing, now, at least, his intentions can be read in context. Four weeks is a long time in fashion, and in the interim other designers—most notably Stefano Pilati at YSL—have been pushing big pleated pants, scrolliform necklines, and standout dirndls in heavy fabrics.
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